My Account
By Andrea Hinchco
Long nights and colder weather means that it is the time to be using cheaper cuts of meat to produce hearty and warming meals. My beloved French enameled casserole is in full time use over the winter as I can cook entire meals on the stovetop which not only makes for good energy savings but also means that the browning, cooking and serving at table is all done in one iconic dish. In this age of instant foods, we need to remember a few old rules which will ensure maximum results.
· Firstly, never boil a stew – the gentlest of simmers over a long period of time builds flavour. Use a simmer mat on the element if it is hard to control the heat.
· Always use the very best of stock. Make your own if you have time and freeze. If using commercial stock, chose a fat free, low sodium variety.
· Good browning is essential to retain flavour. The meat should be thoroughly browned on all sides in several batches, taking about 10 minutes for each batch. As each batch is browned, use tongs to avoid piercing the meat, transfer to a platter and immediately season each batch generously with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper.
· The flavour of one pot meals improves with age. Make a day or two ahead of time, allow it to cool thoroughly at room temperature, refrigerate until serving time. Scrape off and discard any fat that has solidified on the surface and gently reheat until piping hot.
For beef dishes like such as the typical Provencal one below I was advised years ago to always use three different cuts of beef as this enhances the flavour and adds texture.
Three Beef Daube
(Serves 8-10)
4 medium onions, peeled and thinly sliced
2 medium onions, halved with 3 cloves inserted in each
2.5kg beef, three cuts, ie topside, x cut blade and chuck, cubed evenly
2 x 750ml bottles robust red wine
A handful of fresh thyme
5 bay leaves, preferably fresh
1 ½ teaspoons freshly grated nutmeg
3 tblsp extra virgin olive oil
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons tomato paste
1kg carrots, peeled and sliced into rounds
One 480g can peeled tomatoes in juice
4 beef marrow bones, cut into 5cm lengths
90g pork rind, cut into thin strips
Grated zest of an orange
125g black olives, drained and stoned
In a large non-reactive dish, combine the meat, onions, wine, thyme, bay leaves and nutmeg. Cover and marinate at room temperature for 24 hours.
Strain and separate out the onions and meat. Reserve the marinade liquid. In a large, covered casserole, heat the oil over a moderate heat. Add the onions, reduce heat to low and gently brown for 4 to 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer onions to a plate. In the remaining oil gently brown the beef. Do not crowd and be patient. Brown on all sides in several batches, about 10 minutes per batch. Transfer to plate with tongs and season each batch generously.
Once all the meat is browned, return it to the casserole, along with the browned onions, tomato paste and marinade liquid. Season with salt and pepper. Bring to a bare simmer and cook, covered, for 1 hour. Add the carrots, tomatoes, marrow bones and pork rind and stir to evenly distribute. Return to a bare simmer and cook, covered, for 2 more hours. Taste for seasoning and test the meat for tenderness. If necessary simmer for one more hour. During the last 30 minutes of cooking, add the orange zest and black olives.
The daube will be more flavourful and less fatty if allowed to rest for 24 hours. Allow it to cool thoroughly at room temperature, then cover and refrigerate until ready to serve. Scrape off and discard all the fat that has solidified on the surface, gently reheat and serve in warmed shallow bowls accompanied by a lusty, full flavoured red wine and crusty bread.
