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Marmax at anchor in Moorea.
Some unexpected hitchhikers.
The Marmax family, from left, Debbie Aldred, Bruce, Glenys and Janelle Milne, and Les Marsh. The photo was taken in the early stages of the voyage, in front of Santa Maria Cathedral, a 13th century gothic building that overlooks the Bay of Palma, Mallorca. Marmax spent 12 days circumnavigating the island.
From Barcelona to Sandspit in 241 days.
When the 46-foot yacht Marmax sailed into Sandspit Harbour on October 4, it marked a homecoming and the end of an epic adventure.
The crew – Bruce and Glenys Milne, of Brick Bay, their 14-year-old daughter Janelle, and Debbie Aldred and Les Marsh, of Matakana – had been at sea for 241 days, covering just over 45,000 kilometres.
The journey, from Barcelona to Sandspit, included stops at such exotic locations as Mallorca, Gibraltar, the Galapagos Islands and the Marqueas in French Polynesia.
When asked to name some of the highlights of the trip, sisters Glenys and Debbie had a long list, but at the top was “just being together as a family”.
“I’m sure we would all have different answers to that question,” Debbie says. “I loved visiting historical sites in the Mediterranean, but one of the most unforgettable events for me was when I was on watch one night and hundreds of dolphins started racing the boat. The phosphorescence was magical.”
Glenys says the opportunity to visit places tourists never get to see was also pretty special.
“It was also nice to be free of all the everyday distractions that normally clutter our lives.”
Yacht for sale
The adventure began when Bruce spotted a yacht for sale in L’Escala, Spain, about 150kms north of Barcelona. It was an English-designed Oyster single-hulled fibreglass sloop, common in the Mediterranean, but not so well known in New Zealand.
Glenys recalls feeling hesitant when Bruce suggested they sail it home.
“But when I ran the idea past my sister Debbie and her partner Les, they were really keen and it suddenly all seemed possible,” Glenys says.
Six weeks after buying the boat, the decision was made to sail her back to NZ. All four adults on board were experienced sailors and even Janelle was no stranger to shipboard life – she was just 18 months old when Bruce and Glenys sailed their yacht Arctic Lady home from Fiji.
Securing a stable crew for the entire journey was a huge factor for Glenys.
“It’s what stops a lot of other people from attempting a trip like that. Getting crew can be a real hassle – it can be expensive and there is often a lot of red tape, depending on where crew joins the boat.”
Stroke of luck
Departing from Barcelona at the end of the Mediterranean cruising season turned out to be a stroke of good luck.
Marmax picked up favourable winds and tides, and marinas and ports that were choked with boats just a month or two earlier, were relatively quiet.
Looking back, Glenys marvels at how the trip went almost without incident.
“We spent a month servicing and provisioning the boat before leaving Barcelona and didn’t scrimp on the safety gear,” she says. “I think that paid off.
“The boat performed beautifully, and felt safe and comfortable. There was the usual wear and tear on ropes and sails that you’d expect, but nothing major.
“Pirates are a big fear for sailors and we were careful, but we were never threatened. Our mishaps were more like inconveniences. For instance, we did lose our dinghy under a reef in the Tuamotu Islands, in French Polynesia, and on another occasion, we all got ciguatera poisoning after eating parrot fish, which left us itchy and weak.
“The biggest issue was when the fuel pump packed up, cutting out the generator that was used to power the fridge, electrics, autohelm and navigation, and run the desalination system. We set up a system to bypass the pump, which was a bit of a nuisance, but we managed.”
Routine
Days at sea followed a predictable routine of cleaning, maintenance and cooking, and someone was on watch around the clock. Janelle was home schooled throughout the trip, normally doing about five hours a day, five days a week.
“But there was also plenty of time for reading and games, and a drink at sunset. Sometimes we’d tie a rope on and go for a swim. We decided to do this on our last day in the Caribbean, and it very nearly was our last! It wasn’t until Les threw a line in later that we realised just how many sharks were in those waters.”
Encounters with wildlife included humpbacked whales, dolphins, manta ray, orca, crocodiles, swimming with friendly and inquisitive sea lions, watching dancing pink flamingos and getting up close to iguana.
The mating calls of humpback whales kept Les and Debbie awake one night.
She says the devastation caused by hurricanes in the Caribbean was sobering.
“We had to navigate around sunken boats and it looked like someone had hit the islands with a blow torch. Despite this, it is still a stunning place where the water is an unbelievable blue.”
It took Marmax two days to complete the 81km journey through the Panama Canal, which involved navigating six locks – three up and three down.
“There are experts to manage it all, but it was quite an experience. We were rafted together with other vessels, with massive ships towering over us.”
The boat had its own Facebook page allowing family, friends and other interested people to follow the journey.
Debbie, who is also the Sandspit Yacht Club vice commodore, did the postings and wrote a 17-episode blog.
“We were amazed and quite humbled by the feedback, and many said how genuinely sad they were that the trip was over.”
The sisters say they would happily jump on another boat “right now”, but the reality was that they had family and responsibilities, and Janelle had her schooling to finish.
“Settling back into life on land has meant quite an adjustment. There is nothing to describe the feeling of waking up in the morning and sailing in to a brand new country.”
