Cuisine – Fresh summer fish

Ceviche, crudo, carpaccio, tartare, sashimi and poke are all names for different and yet very special preparations for fresh fish. What is common to all these method from around the world is there is no cooking involved. Instead, the fish is marinated or dressed with lemon juice or a sauce that includes an exceptionally good vinegar and plenty of salt. After anywhere from 30 minutes to several hours, some of the liquid can be tossed away and extra flavours like herbs, finely chopped vegetables and a touch of spice can be added.

Many people are a little fearful of eating “raw” fish, but by using the freshest of any fish straight from the ocean, and giving it careful and thoughtful preparation, the taste and texture of the fish can become a revelation. If you have a fisher in the family or your neighbours are generous with their catch, you are lucky, as one of the most important things for a cook to seek is very fresh fish.

If you’re buying fish, look for fillets that are glossy and firm. Don’t be afraid to ask to see the fish up close. If there’s the slightest ammonia-like whiff, reject it. If the fish is whole, the eyes should still be shiny and not at all sunken. Most fish from New Zealand waters has flesh that is almost translucent when fresh, but it will become more opaque and often rather slimy after a day or two out of the water.

So once purchased or caught, eat it as soon as you can.

Transport your fish in a cool container from the supermarket and get it into the refrigerator as quickly as you can. If you catch your own fish, always take frozen salt water with you so your catch can be put on ice immediately. Never wash fish with fresh water if you can help it. You will be surprised how this retains the texture beautifully.

Every summer I look forward to fresh caught fish. Apart from lightly frying fillets in the pan in a little oil and butter, my favourite treat is to treat it gently, marinating with lemon and then adding coconut cream – never coconut milk! My mother is from Tonga, where the simplest version of this dish is made traditionally – lemon, salt and coconut without any spicing. I like to add fresh finely chopped herbs (chives, dill, fennel or parsley) and some very finely sliced spring onions. However in the tradition of ceviche from South America and poke from Hawaii, very finely chopped vegetables can bulk the dish out and add lots of colour and texture. Use tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers and even finely chopped beans

In the following recipe, you can use any freshly caught fish, including kahawai, mullet, gurnard, terakihi, tuna, kingfish, hapuku, snapper and more. This method also works well with very lightly steamed mussels, removed from their shells and with the rather tough ‘foot’ also removed.

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Easy Lemon and Coconut Fresh Fish

800g fresh snapper, skinned and boned
4 juicy lemons
1 generous tbsp salt
300mls thick coconut cream
2 tbsps finely chopped fresh herbs
4 spring onions, finely sliced
Freshly ground black pepper

Cut the fish into bite-size pieces and place in a glass or stainless steel bowl. Squeeze the lemons and then cover the fish completely with the juice. Sprinkle generously with salt and gently mix. Cover well and refrigerate for at least one hour.

When the fish is well marinated in the lemon, and the flesh has turned almost opaque, drain well, discarding the salty lemon juice. Place fish in a clean bowl and add the spring onions, herbs, black pepper and coconut cream. Stir through gently and season to taste if necessary. Cover and return to the fridge for at least two hours.

To serve, bring to room temperature and serve as an appetiser or an entrée with a little green salad. Serves 8

Other serving ideas:

To help yourself at a barbecue: Cover a plate with salad leaves and pile the fish onto the leaves. Decorate with sprigs or herbs and edible flowers.

For individual servings, lay crisp lettuce (cos is best) leaves on a platter and spoon a little pile of the fish onto each leaf. Sprinkle with red pepper flakes or Japanese Togarashi pepper. Decorate with nasturtium flowers (as shown in the photo).

If you have a collection of spoons, use them to serve a great cocktail food item. I have about three dozen Chinese soup spoons which, when filled with a spoonful of the coconut fish, are perfect for using at a drinks party.