Gardening – Gardening in mid-summer

Normally in early February we would be experiencing relatively dry conditions, but this year it seems we have been blessed with an over-abundance of rain! Coupled with long daylight hours and warm soil temperatures, plants are growing rapidly, but so are weeds, pests and diseases. This is the peak of summer maintenance, harvesting and forward planning for autumn crops.

I’ve no doubt that within a week or so the normal dry summer pattern will return, which will require watering. The key is deep, infrequent watering rather than light daily sprinkles. Water early in the morning to reduce evaporation and fungal issues. A thick layer of mulch around vegetables, fruit trees and ornamentals will make a dramatic difference, keeping soil temperatures stable and reducing water loss. Grass clippings, pea straw, arborists mulch (mixed tree prunings that have been shredded) and weed-free compost are all excellent choices.

Vegetable gardens should be producing heavily now. Beans, courgettes, cucumbers, tomatoes, capsicums and sweetcorn are all at their peak. Tomatoes, courgettes and capsicums will benefit from removing yellowing lower leaves to improve airflow and reduce disease risk. Tie up vigorous growth and check for signs of blight and mildew, especially after humid nights.

Although it feels like high summer, this is the perfect moment to sow and plant for autumn and winter. The soil is warm, so seeds germinate quickly and plants establish well before the cooler weather arrives. Many seeds can be direct sown as they germinate so easily at this time, including carrots, beetroot, silverbeet, spinach, lettuce, spring onions and radish. If you prefer to transplant, then all except carrots can be still sown in punnets. This is also the preferred method for sowing broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, kale and leeks, which will be ready to plant out in four to six weeks, just as summer crops begin to wind down and get cleared out.

It’s also just enough time to get another crop of beans, scallopini and courgettes in, as these are fast to come into fruit and will keep producing till it gets too cold. It’s too late for melons and any of the tomato family, although I’m tempted to buy some corn seedlings to try and get a last crop before winter!
White butterfly caterpillars, aphids, psyllid, shield beetles and mites all thrive in warm conditions.

Companion planting with herbs like dill, coriander and parsley can help attract beneficial insects, which will help balance the pest population. Slugs and snails are less active in dry weather but can still hide under mulch, so keep an eye out when watering and slug bait or trap whenever there is a sustained burst of rain.

Summer is the time to prune any vigorous vertical growing branches on plums and persimmons to remove excess growth. Remove and destroy (freeze then composting works well) any damaged or fallen fruit to reduce guava moth and codling moth carryover. Banding the trees with corrugated cardboard with a layer of Vaseline below it is a good technique to capture any codling moth heading for the ground. Just remove and burn during the winter pruning.

Deadhead flowering plants such as roses, dahlias and geraniums to keep displays going. Cut back herbs like mint, oregano and thyme to prevent them becoming woody. Lavender can be lightly trimmed after flowering. A little work each day – harvesting, watering, checking for pests and planning ahead – will set your garden up beautifully for the cooler months to come.