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“So, which one is better?”, is a typical question I get when people find out I’ve been to both Antarctica and the Arctic. I usually reply:, “Well, it all depends on whether you prefer penguins or polar bears”.
But which of these polar regions stole my heart, and are they similar, or poles apart?
Working for Wild Earth Travel, a small ship / expedition specialist company, has not only improved my geographical knowledge of the world, but also given me the opportunity to explore some remarkable places. Early in 2019 I ventured to Antarctica, with French company Ponant.
There are three popular ways to head to the ‘white continent’; flying to South America and sailing south from Ushuaia through the Drake Passage (commonly referred to as the ‘Drake Lake’ or the ‘Drake Shake’ depending on the sea conditions) to explore the Antarctic Peninsula. Secondly, exploring this same area of Antarctica and adding on South Georgia and the Falkland Islands. Finally, an epic voyage leaving Bluff taking you through New Zealand’s subantarctic Islands to explore the Ross Sea region of Antarctica, which can take four weeks.
Wildlife
My adventure followed the first itinerary; the most popular, and the most time and cost-effective way, to venture south. Fortunately, we experienced the ‘Drake Lake’ and made the crossing in about 36 hours. Stepping foot on land, in the South Shetland Islands, was my first preview of wildlife – penguins and seals covered the shoreline, and whales were not far off land. Wildlife is perhaps one of the biggest differences between the polar regions. Human contact is limited in the Antarctic, which makes the animals fearless and somewhat inquisitive, and although we are told to stick to strict regulations and viewing parameters around the wildlife, they don’t get that memo so if you stay in one spot, you are likely to have penguins coming close to inspect your boots.
One of the main reasons people want to visit the Arctic is to see polar bears, one of the largest predators on the planet. Arctic foxes, reindeer, walrus musk ox, seals and whales are also found in the north, as well as a variety of birdlife, however with hunting pressures in the Arctic, the animals are often more wary.
Five years on from my first taste of the polar regions, I had the immense privilege to visit the Arctic, with a journey to East Greenland aboard the world’s only luxury icebreaker, Le Commadant Charcot, at the very beginning of the season when no other vessels have the capability to break through the solid sea ice. We knew that spotting a polar bear was going to be a delight and, on this voyage, we came across a whale carcass that was wedged between two ice sheets: a natural ‘buffet’ for polar bears, attracting an astounding 68 bears. This sighting of wildlife was something both the captain and our Inuit ‘polar bear spotters’ (indigenous hunters from Ittoqqortoormiit in Greenland) had never seen.
The presence of polar bears in the north means extra safety measures are needed for landings and excursions in the Arctic region.
People
With six countries making up the Arctic Region there is diversity in cultures, language and customs. With these differences also comes a united connection to the land, and traditional livelihoods, such as fishing and hunting. Although we were unable to reach the small Greenlandic community of Ittoqqortoormiit (the most remote community in the world) due to the solid ice, we were fortunate to have two local Inuit hunters onboard our voyage. As much as I tried, I could not understand or pronounce a word of Greenlandic, but our guides Scoresby and Age had a great grasp of the English language. Over coffee in the morning, as they kept watch for polar bears, I learnt what life was like living in complete darkness for much of the year, and how for nine months of the year the only way to access their small community was by helicopter – as the sea ice completely froze and left them inaccessible.
Ice
“Ice belongs in a glass, but never with whisky”, was another one of my cheesy one-liners I’d use, before I experienced the polar regions and discovered how incredibly mesmerising and beautiful ice is. Ice takes so many forms, and yes – it is different in the polar regions. On both voyages, as well as sitting in on lectures from the expedition team on animals, history and activities in the regions, I also sat in on lectures that covered what many would consider mundane topics, such as ice. These talks were often the ‘surprise and delight’ ones, and the facts I learned have stayed ingrained in my memory. There is fast ice, first-year ice, brash ice, pack ice and, of course, icebergs (to name just a few).
Sea ice in the Arctic region changes seasonally; during winter when the temperature decreases the sea water freezes, and then melts during the summer. In comparison, Antarctica is surrounded completely by the ocean. Because of this, the sea ice that is formed in the winter months is not constrained by surrounding landmasses, which allows the sea ice to spread over a much larger area.
Antarctica’s glaciers tend to be much larger than glaciers of the Arctic, and the Arctic’s icebergs are usually more jagged and irregular in shape than icebergs found in Antarctica. Antarctic icebergs can be of both glacial origin and ice shelf origin. The tabular ice shelf bergs are the biggest by a long way, and Antarctic glaciers also produce enormous non-tabular icebergs. Arctic icebergs, however, are only produced from glaciers (not ice shelves) and therefore aren’t going to reach the same size.
I now have dozens and dozens of photos of ice… sea ice, icebergs and even videos of glaciers carving into the ocean. Being onboard icebreaker Le Commandant Charcot, also saw us cut through sea ice and even penetrate an eight-metre ice ridge. The technology and innovation on this vessel is incredible, yet everything is done in careful consideration of the environment. In addition, the scientific research and discovery that is achieved by the scientists and equipment onboard has immense benefits that have never been achieved before.
Seasons
As well as differences between the two polar regions, there are also differences to the seasons in each area. You can only travel to Antarctica in summer (November-March). Earlier in this season, you discover pristine landscapes with plenty of ice and the largest icebergs. The penguins are beginning to court, and you might witness breeding elephant seals if that’s on your list! As the ice melts, temperatures begin to warm up (a smidge), you can travel further south, and whales begin to return to the region. Later in the season, the ice is certainly not as pristine, and there is penguin evidence everywhere (you can smell them before you see them!), however you also see plenty of penguin chicks and February and March is best for whale watching.
Technically, you can visit the Arctic all year round. Summer is the peak tourist season with longer days and milder temperatures making it an ideal time to explore higher latitudes. The midnight sun provides unique opportunities for outdoor activities at any time of day and does take a bit of time to get used to. Black-out curtains are a big help to get much needed sleep, however I did check several times overnight to ensure polar bears were still about during our incredible polar bear sighting and spotted them no problem in the early hours of the morning basking in the midnight sun. The remainder of the year attracts visitors for other reasons, with one major appeal being the northern lights during winter, but be prepared for shorter days and colder temperatures at this time.
So, which one is better?
Our vivacious and passionate expedition leader aboard Le Commandant Charcot, Florence Kuyper, summed this up well for me over breakfast on our last day. Her reply, “Sarah, it’s much the same as asking whether you prefer red wine or white wine; whichever one, you just want more of it.”
It remains difficult to compare Antarctica and The Arctic and to pick a favourite. The sense of vastness in both regions, along with the unexpected encounters with wildlife, reminded me of exploring Africa’s vast deserts except I was in a zodiac and not a safari jeep. The sound of silence is deafening, and a magical feeling creeps inside you and warms your soul. My adventure in the Arctic and seeing 68 polar bears would have to be my favourite voyage; however, Antarctica would be my favourite destination. As much as I enjoy both red wine and white wine, I adore both polar bears and penguins and now want more of both. In a heartbeat I’d return to both the polar regions, for I only experienced the very tip of the iceberg and there is still so much to discover and explore.
By Sarah Porter – Sarah Porter works for Wild Earth Travel – small ship and expedition travel specialists. www.wildearth-travel.com Sarah embarked on both polar explorations as a guest of Ponant.
