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What better way to get out on the water than on a surfboard. According to Che Burnett, of Aotearoa Surf School, surfing is becoming ever more popular. Children as young as four to oldies in their eighties are eagerly taking up the sport. Mahurangi’s relatively safe eastern beaches provide the perfect spot for the beginner to start. All the same, there are a few things the novice surfer should keep in mind to stay safe and have a great day riding their first waves. Che offers his top 10 surf tips for those about to ride the surf for the first time:
1. Get the right board
On the East Coast we tend to have smaller, three-foot waves, and to ride these waves you need a longer board, say seven, eight or nine feet long. A longer board will also be more stable and easier to clamber on to. Furthermore, get a soft board. If you jump off and the board hits you in the head, it’s going to be much less painful. Too often people try to start surfing with a 6-foot fibreglass, high-performance surf board that they are just going to struggle on and have a poor experience in the water.
2. Cover up
You need to stay warm and keep the sun off. There are many wetsuits out there, but the one I recommend is known as a “steamer”, which has long arms and legs. Find one with three millimetres of material around your vital organs and 2mm along the length of your arms and legs. This will allow good flexibility for your limbs, while keeping your torso warm. It also offers a lot of protection from the sun. On this point, wearing a hat in the water is not a silly idea. There are great surf caps available, but even a cheap baseball cap will work, and they nearly always float. Use a high quality water-resistant sunscreen on any uncovered areas of skin. Put it on 20 minutes before you go into the water to allow it to soak in. Otherwise, it will wash off and into your eyes.
3. Check the forecast
Ideal surfing conditions occur when there are low winds. When there are higher winds you end up with a messier, washing-machine effect in the water that can easily get you flustered.
4. Look before you leap
When you arrive at the beach, don’t just jump in the water. It’s essential to look at the ocean for at least 10 minutes. Ask yourself what looks like the best surfing spot? What wave patterns can you see? Are waves breaking in shallow areas? Are there any rocks? Are there kids and body boarders swimming in a particular area that you will need to avoid?
5. Test for rips
Most people say that you can spot a rip by looking for a flat spot on the water, but it’s actually very difficult to spot a rip this way. The best way to detect a rip is by walking into the water. If there is a rip you will be able feel a feeder current flowing to the left or to the right. The feeder current is looking for a deep channel to head back out into the sea. If the feeder current is going left, head right. If it is going right, head left. Also, set yourself a marker, such as a car park or a tree. Check regularly to see if you have moved in relation to your mark. If you have, head back to the beach and walk back to where you started. Don’t try to swim back.
6. Warm up
The most common injuries in surfing are due to cramp. You should do warm up exercises before any vigorous sport and surfing is no exception. You will be twisting around on a board, bending your knees and paddling using your shoulders. Warm those muscles up to avoid the sprains and strains.
7. Never surf alone
Don’t go 100 metres down the beach away from everyone else to surf alone. There’s safety in numbers and probably a good reason why surfers have congregated around a certain spot. Talk to them about surfing conditions and talk to people on the beach. If possible, take an experienced surfing buddy with you. The way to fast- track your surfing skills is learn from someone who has done it before.
8. Stay hydrated
Drowning is rare in surfing but dehydration is common. Take plenty of drinking water and be sure to drink it.
9. Start small
It’s important to be able to surf in the white water before trying to surf unbroken waves. You can have a lot of fun while mastering surf fundamentals in white water. Practice your timing, moving from a paddling position to a surfing stance (popping up), and steering straight for the beach. Do this before heading into trickier, deeper waters where waves might end up breaking on you.
10. Get a lesson
Most surf schools will provide everything the beginner needs for a lesson – board, wetsuit, sunscreen, qualified coaches. You can try out surfing and see if it’s right for you before spending a cent on equipment.
